Simit-Chi is authentic and sooo delicious

By Howard Pressburger

I’m not saying that the Book City building at 501 Bloor St. W. is cursed, but since the landmark store was crushed under the heel of online bookstores, it has mostly rested in the dark, save for a vain attempt by Chipotle, when they learned the hard way that the Annex does not pay extra for guacamole. 

So for quite a while the building was shuttered, only dressed by a fading green poster pleading “rent me.” The ghosts of what was were still strong enough as I was often asked “What’s going into Book City?”

This spring, a new sign was hung that read Simit-Chi, and on April 1, the paper came down.  Suddenly there was a complete restaurant, ready for business. I was surprised because I did not see any work being done. It was as if this cafe was created by magic, or maybe there was a back entrance through the alley.

I was at the hardware store when a friendly Turkish gentleman, bearing baked goods, dropped by. The paper bag was filled with warm simits, the Turkish version of the bagel. This was unlike any bagel I had ever encountered, and I’ve been to New York AND Montreal. 

Imagine the best bagel you’ve ever eaten had a love child with the tastiest croissant. In this moment of epicurean wonderment, I knew I had to try more.

And try more I did.

So I invited my cousin Tom to lunch. The atmosphere in the restaurant is casual and clean with an ample counter in front showcasing their wide variety of baked goods and several tables towards the rear. 

Ordering at the counter, I got the lahmacun, while cousin Tom ordered hummus with a chicken doner and simit.

Lahmacun is a pizza-like crispy flatbread with spiced ground beef and lamb, mozzarella cheese, tomatoes, red and green peppers, parsley, garlic, and tomato and red pepper paste. A bit of chilli adds a nice touch of spiciness. It is a surprisingly light meal with complex  flavours and a high palate finish that pleasantly lingers. I paired it with a bottle of legendary Uludag orange soda.

Cousin Tom’s hummus and doner and simit (oh my!) was anything but run of the mill. Instead of being all crammed up inside a pita, it is plated, letting you control the proportions of the ingredients. The hummus was light and airy with a modest amount of garlic. The chicken doner was delicately spiced, moist, and tender. The simit was soft on the inside with  a thin, crispy crust. Cousin Tom, an architect, seemed to really enjoy applying his trade by creating different combinations of his lunch. 

To drink, he chose Turkish coffee, which is a robust, creamy brew, with the grounds left in when served.

Just to make sure I hadn’t missed anything, I went back the next day for breakfast with my wife. Ali, the manager, recognized me from the previous day, as if he knew I’d be back. I asked him how this place came to be, and he told me of the story of the Turkish family who had a secret recipe for simit. They have been selling it as a street food in Turkey for a few decades and decided to bring it to Toronto, which is how they ended up here in the Annex. I wasn’t able to get much more history from Ali, but it is a secret recipe after all.

Meanwhile, my wife ordered menemen which is the Turkish version of shakshuka. This time around however, the egg is scrambled and cooked into a pleasantly mild tomato and green pepper sauce. Served with a soft and crunchy simit, it is a hearty breakfast that is not overly filling. 

I had the Turkish breakfast plate. It’s an assortment of goodies, including a Turkish spring roll, a Turkish cheese bun, a boiled egg, feta cheese, cream cheese, olives, butter, honey, a tahini and organic Turkish grape syrup, and, of course, a simit. 

The spring roll, although it resembles a typical Asian one, is savoury without the tanginess. The cheese bun is filled with a sweet mascarpone-like cheese. The tahini and grape syrup is a mysterious taste combination of sesame paste and a sweet grape reduction, perfect for dipping the simit. The breakfast plate is great for sharing.

Both my wife and I had Turkish tea which is a mildly spiced red tea served in a tulip-shaped glass. 

I made one more visit to Simit-Chi and thought I’d be clever and use the Turkish greeting “Merhaba” with the counter person. Well, either they weren’t expecting it, or my pronunciation was ghastly (more likely), and I was served baklava. Not wanting to embarrass myself more, I took my purchase and swallowed the baklava, along with my wounded pride; they were both delicious.”

Howard Pressburger is the manager of Wiener’s Home Hardware across the street at 432 Bloor St. W.