A contrast in two Annex cafés

By Howard Pressburger

The absolute worst news I ever got from my family doctor was to cut coffee out of my diet. 

Okay, maybe I am exaggerating. He actually told me to cut down to two coffees a day; still, this was devastating. 

Like anyone else faced with life-altering medical news, I went on a trip of a lifetime to experience a true Viennese coffee house. I went to Trieste, not Vienna. There are real Viennese coffee houses in Trieste, holdovers from the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Also, my uncle was living there, so I had a place to stay. When I came home, I had become a coffee snob.

Now, when I go out for coffee, I only frequent interesting, independent coffee shops, and fortunately, I don’t have far to go.

Situated on Borden, just behind 509 Bloor W., is Wildhearts Café. This is the pet project of Sean Lacey, born and raised close by in Little Italy, who previously helmed Voulez Vous Café in Leslieville. Sean was thrilled to finally find a new location just slightly off the beaten path. He rebuilt the space from the ground up with blue-green walls that seem to change with the mood, rough-hewn tables, antique gramophone sound horns as ceiling lights, and two large glass-paned garage doors which open onto a large patio. 

Driven by a desire to build and foster community, the staff are selected not just for their barista skills, but also for their ability to be affable and inviting. 

In addition to the standard espresso-based drinks (and drip coffee for the faint of heart), they offer a wide variety of teas, and two other standout hot beverages. The hot chocolate is made from red and dark cocoa—this was a godsend during the recent snowstorm and cold snap—and something called the Flu Buster. (I can personally attest to the efficacy and the truthfulness of this  descriptor.) There is also a small, open kitchen, with a continually evolving menu of fresh baked goods, soups, and sandwiches. 

Moving forward, Sean plans to add more community events such as a regular open mic, casual concerts, and literary events. All in all, Wildhearts has cemented itself in the Annex as a vital and big-hearted member of the community.

Across the street, half a world away yet across the street, at 424 Bloor St. W, is Công Cà Phê.

Part art installation, part coffee shop, I found it to be a surprisingly immersive experience. Fortunately, I had the guidance of Minh Nguyen who covers a lot of the day-to-day operations at Công. Meeting recently for morning coffee, he introduced me to a whole new caffeine culture. Having never experienced a coffee shop like this, it really made me rethink my coffee-related hubris. To put it succinctly, my mind was blown, and not just by the caffeine.

It starts with the coffee plant itself. Vietnamese coffee uses robusta beans  which are well-suited to their growing conditions. However, this bean has a strong bitter flavour compared to arabica beans which most cafés like Wildhearts use. So, to balance out the bitterness, condensed milk is used as a sweetener. And if that’s not enough, it turns out that robusta beans have about twice the amount of caffeine than arabica. 

I also learned that the climate plays a big role in coffee culture. Vietnam is hot, like really hot. Like plus 40 hot. Coffee is generally served cold, with ice that doesn’t seem to melt. It’s sweet, but not overpowering, and it’s got a bite. It is meant to be savoured over a few hours.

But the magical thing about Công is that each location is unique, and they’re all designed to evoke an aspect of life from Vietnam during the rebuilding phase after the war. The Annex location is about family life and evokes the resourcefulness of the time. It is set up with low couches in the front, like a comfy living room, but look closely, and you’ll see that the furniture is pieced together like Frankenstein’s monster. The wood panelling comes from a dozen different structures, the bookcases are cobbled together from boxes, and  pictures are repurposed as art. I found it as mesmerizing as a George Segal sculpture. 

Minh tells me they have a variety of customers including many local regulars. I asked him if there were any special customer stories. He said that Vietnamese living in Toronto really appreciate something authentic from home. He also confided he can tell when someone is homesick.

READ MORE BY HOWARD PRESSBURGER:

• NEW IN BUSINESS: Clothing options on Bloor for the fashion conscious (Dec. 2025)
• NEW IN BUSINESS: Delightfully Turkish (Sept. 2025)